Day 1 – Land End to Pendeen 10 Miles

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Crossing the river Tamar to Cornwall on the train

I got to Plymouth at 5:15 and rushed across town to catch my 5:45 train to Penzance. Light was starting to seep across the city centre. The people I past were a mixture of those drifting along who’d woken up early for work and those who’d yet to go to sleep. I walked the first ten minutes with my shoelaces undone from the coach, sure I’d miss the train. I’d reserved advanced tickets, and I still needed to pick them up at the station before boarding. After nearly missing my megabus from London I was waiting for something else to go wrong. The idea that I was actually starting was staggering, I really couldn’t get my head around it. I’d not trained enough, I’d gone on one over night walk and was in general unfit. This was ridiculous.
Everything, however, went fine and I found myself on a charmingly retro train with wide arm chair style seats and sleeper compartments. While it seemed to travel incredibly slowly it was also wonderfully smooth and I dozed happily. Compared with the cramped knee crushing chairs in megabus these coaches were heaven.

View from Penzance Train station back to St Michael’s Mount

Once at Penzance I searched for a cafe to have breakfast in while waiting for the bus. Straight outside the station is a wonderfully cheap and friendly greasy spoon called Sullivan’s Dinner. Fried egg sandwiches £1.20 and tea for £1. It’s not a stylish buildings, rather a rundown box but the foods good and quick.
  I could feel my heart beating a little faster on the bus. I couldn’t help fidget and check the straps on the backpack as if they’d suddenly break. Its a state of the art Deuter backpack, the straps are not going to break anytime soon. Although only a dozen or so miles away the bus was slow and wound around the town in zigzags taking nearly 50 minutes to complete the journey.
  Lands end was crowded with tourists, a large group of cyclists near the entrance balanced on their perches listening to their leaders instructions. Most of the people milling around were foreigner. I wondered past them feeling fooling with my backpack. I found a smaller sign than I’d expected and got a nice gentleman to take some pics of me grinning. I tried to hold up the banner but the wind wouldn’t let me. A weather warning had been issued for today’s winds and they were spot on.
Once I’d registered for the walk, had a toilet break, I finally set off. Walkers were everywhere, but none wearing the backpack and I stood out horribly. This became less conspicuous as I left Cowle and dropped down to Whitesand Bay.
The walking isn’t too steep but once off the beach the path is hard under foot, a few scrambles slowing me down and breaking my rhythm. Longer distance walkers wondered past here and there, more than I’ve ever seen. I seemed to have finally planned a walk during the hiking season.

Registration book at the start of Land’s End to John o’Groats

Freswick Beech

  It took quite a while to reach Cape Cornwall. Chimneys begin to speckle the landscape like silent wardens. Tin mining is evident but not in an ugly way, time making their ruins romantic. The idea of the labyrinth beneath my feet adds mystery to their shapes.
My new hat proved a major success, fitting perfectly and keeping the hair out of my face. I also figured I should get used to wearing it before the summer really begins.
Cutting across farm land I reached Pendeen and found North Inn where I camped. The wind was so strong I was seriously worried for my tent and spent nearly half an hour fastening it down. Even now sat in the pub I’m a little worried I’ll go back to find it gone. That would not be a good start. 

Showered I made myself dinner, couscous and tinned diced and beef in gravy. Dull food and a mistake. Also the tin cost £3 which is a tad pricy. If I get to St Ives early enough I’ll find a proper shop and do better. I’ve also promised myself a pasty before leaving Cornwall so that is also on the menu.
Only 13 miles tomorrow so another relatively easy day, and a chance to allow my body to adapt to the trail. First day done I feel slightly less scared, still don’t believe I’m actually doing though.

North Inn Campsite, Pendeen

Land’s End to John o’Groats! Ready? Steady? ….WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOUR NOT READY?!

I’m on my way. I’ve been sat on the coach now for the last next fifteen hours as I’m making my way down to Lands End. Judging from my sniffling as I watched a feel good film on my phone I’m more nervous than I’m letting on. It was good to have a few hours in London with some mates before catching the second coach to Plymouth. Might be a long winded journey but at nearly a hundred pounds cheaper than the train I wasn’t going to be too fussy. As it’s going to take me well over a month to make my way back I also need to stop thinking of time as an issue.

There’s been a weather warning issued in Cornwall for severe winds at the start of this week. Not a lot of rain but could be an interesting start to the trail.

Last night I packed one last time, listing everything and been as ruthless as I could possibly be. Charged all electronic and failed to sleep. I also used a tape measure to record my measurements, a before and after well let me know the affects the walk will have had on my body. I still feel like a fraud and am terrified of failing now that the charity is set up and depending on me. Fitness wise I’ve failed, hardly having gone on any walks before and ignoring my gym membership. Some of the guides go into some depth on different ways of training, a hiker stated on his blog that he walked two 30 mile day hikes every week for the three months preceding the walk. I walked the ten minutes to work everyday… Well too late to worry about it now.  Perhaps I could be a poster child for slightly obese people getting outdoors, whats the campaign called? Britain on Foot!

As I’m also a painter, and worked on a piece about body image, I added my measurements on top. After the walk I will measure myself again and see if there’s a change.

Body measurements before the walk overlaid on my painting ‘Taking Measure’

Hiking and Wilderness Films and Documentaries

   Below is a list of films I’ve seen over the last few years which inspire me to plan my next journey, or soothe my withdraw in winter when its too cold to camp out. Will add to this as I find new ones. They are in no particular order:

Wild (2014)7.3/10  IMBD Rating

A chronicle of one woman’s 1,100-mile solo hike undertaken as a way to recover from a recent catastrophe. (115 mins.)

Director: Jean-Marc Vallée

Stars: Reese Witherspoon, Laura Dern, Gaby Hoffmann, Michiel Huisman

I rather love this film but I’m not sure how much you would unless you’ve experienced some of the things she did while hiking. The aching feet, trail food and the suspicions that your completely over you’re head and on the ledge are captured perfectly. Reese Witherspoon is wonderful, and captured the spirit of the novel. A few characters and events in the book are left out of the film, things are moved around a little but the essence is there and the film shines through as the books equal. Its largely about Cheryl Strayed spiritual journey, and while I was captivated by her story, what I adored was watching the physical aspects of the hike and the scenery she past through. All this on top of a good script, good directing and atmospheric music makes a must see film for any outdoor enthusiast.

Tracks (2013)

A young woman goes on a 1,700-mile trek across the deserts of West Australia with four camels and her faithful dog. (112 mins.)

Director: John Curran

Stars: Mia Wasikowska, Adam Driver, Lily Pearl, Philip Dodd

 

7.2/10

This woman is very different from Cheryl Strayed in ‘Wild’. Her need for solitude stems from a loss of faith in other people rather than a loss of faith in herself. The film explored more the environment she goes through, the state of mind she’s in and the political and social debates surrounding the aborigine people and their territories in 1970s Australia.  You see her tired and sunburned but at no point does the film focus on the physicality of the expedition.  Neither does it try to make her too likeable or open character, which is something I like. Its an intriguing film and well worth a watch. The moment I finished it I began the book.

127 Hours (2010)

  7.7/10

A mountain climber becomes trapped under a boulder while canyoneering alone near Moab, Utah and resorts to desperate measures in order to survive. (94 mins.)

Director: Danny Boyle

Stars: James Franco, Amber Tamblyn, Kate Mara, Sean Bott

   Out of all the films this is probably the most artistically shot and creative. I watched it the first time on the steps outside the kibbutz dorm . I needed to since I shared a room with two other girls and didn’t want to disturb them as I shouted and screamed at the screen. Never will you feel more involved in a characters plight. The story plot it well known and I watched it expecting a dark and gritty film . In fact, while everything bad you know is going to happen is gone through with gory and excruciating artistry, your left feeling incredibly optimistic about life. Like a lot of these films its focus isn’t pain and disaster but the strength of will and drive to survive of the main character. James Franco performed exquisitely and the music, and affects all serve to make a poetic and poignant film

Walking the Nile (2015 TV Series)

  10/10

Documentary about Ex-soldier and explorer Levison Wood who embarks on a quest to walk the entire length of the River Nile.

Director: Jamie Berry

Stars: Levison Wood

  Watched this last night…quite incredible a person and project. The pure determination really inspires you, plus makes any poultry adventure you have planned look doable no matter how hard you struggle to complete it. The millage this man covers! Well shot, informative and a wonderfully nonjudgmental open look at the people that live around the Nile. Through his journey you see the generosity and intricacy of different cultures, as well as the strife and horrors which war torn countries are faced with. Levison Wood came across as the most open, patient and energetic travel companion I’ve ever seen in my life. At no point during thirty mile plus days did he seem to turn on anyone. Half way through the desert I would have been horrible to whom ever came close. I found him charming, engaging and funny. Really blown away by the entire series and can’t way to read the book- although I might save it for when I go on my next long walk. And he listens to audiobooks when he walks!!!! My kind of chap.

The Way (2010)

  7.4/10

A father heads overseas to recover the body of his estranged son who died while traveling the “El camino de Santiago,” and decides to take the pilgrimage himself. (123 mins.)

Director: Emilio Estevez

Stars: Martin Sheen, Emilio Estevez, Deborah Kara Unger, Yorick van Wageningen

    The Way is a sweet film but as far as filmography, originality and script its not in the same league as the ones above. I love Martin Sheen and all the other characters are believable and charming but there’s nothing much more to it and my affection for the film stems from the fact that the plot follow the characters through Spain on foot. It has made me put Camino de Santiago on my to do list and captures the feel and vibrancy of the pilgrimage.

5. Mile… Mile & a Half (2013 Documentary)

  8/10

In an epic snow year, five friends leave their daily lives behind to hike California’s historic John Muir Trail… (87 mins.)

Director: Jason M. Fitzpatrick, Ric Serena

Stunning footage and nicely edited with care and love taken with the details. A lovely documentary for hikers. While I would never have the strength to drag all that equipment with me when I go out walking watching this I was tempted. The people walking it are likeable, and seem wonderfully inclusive. I’d love to encounter them on a trail.

Cast Away (2000)

  7.7/10

A FedEx executive must transform himself physically and emotionally to survive a crash landing on a deserted island. (143 mins.)

Director: Robert Zemeckis

Stars: Tom Hanks, Helen Hunt, Paul Sanchez, Lari White

  Everyone knows this film, and a review seems a tad unneeded. Tom Hanks is great and while its more about survival than adventure it still stimulated the imagination. Its a wonderfully silent film, the lack of music and speech serves to emphasize his isolation and loveliness. Tom Hank’s transformation through the film is believable and captivating. Every year or so I find myself watching it at least once.

Touching the Void (2003 Documentary)

  8.1/10

The true story of two climbers and their perilous journey up the west face of Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes in 1985. (106 mins.)

Director: Kevin Macdonald

Stars: Simon Yates, Joe Simpson, Brendan Mackey, Nicholas Aaron

 

  

I read ‘Touching the Void’ quite recently and Joe Simpson had me wrapped in a duvet in defense. The tension and  descriptive nature of the narration had me instantly. After I’d finished I both wanted to climb a mountain and stay as far as I could from them. The film/documentary isn’t the books equal but its beautifully done and allows you to understand and visualize his experiences the better. Part of me wanted an Americanized version, camera up close in an actors face but it would have lacked the honesty and grittiness of these reenactments and interviews. It does, as the book, come across as a wonderful defense of Simon Yates, and an expression of the friendship and loyalty they have for one another.

 

Into the Wild (2007)

  8.2/10

After graduating from Emory University, top student and athlete Christopher McCandless abandons his possessions, gives his entire $24,000 savings account to charity and hitchhikes to Alaska to live in the wilderness. Along the way, Christopher encounters a series of characters that shape his life. (148 mins.)

Director: Sean Penn

Stars: Emile Hirsch, Vince Vaughn, Catherine Keener, Marcia Gay Harden

  This is a film which made me so so cross, and simultaneously sad. I find the main character naive, indulgent and self absorbed. I suspect people watch this in a variety of perspectives. I saw this journey through his mothers eyes and felt her pain and sense of abandonment, I also felt that he was the cause. This prejudiced me against the entire film although I confess its flawlessly shot and scripted- I appreciate that its a beautifully made film that drew really strong emotions from me but I plan to avoid any re-watching. If nothing else it serves as a reminder to really prep, not be too full hardy, and for god sake tell people where your going.

Swiss Family Robinson (1960)

  7.2/10

A Swiss family must survive being shipwrecked on a deserted island. (126 mins.)

Director: Ken Annakin

Stars: John Mills, Dorothy McGuire, James MacArthur, Janet Munro

  Who didn’t love this while growing up? The girl disguised as a boy, the pirates and the instantly tame assortment of animals which surrounded them. Even now it is a charming film which makes you want to build a tree house and live in the midst of the woods.

The Snow Walker (2003)

  7.4/10

A pilot and his passenger struggle for survival after crashing in the Arctic tundra. (103 mins.)

Director: Charles Martin Smith

Stars: Barry Pepper, Annabella Piugattuk, James Cromwell, Kiersten Warren

  This film holds the quiet intensity of Tracks, as well as the conflict and relationship between the ‘civilized’ world and the natives’ more ‘primitive’. By placing a racist and self serving pilot in the middle of a foreign and fierce environment the viewer learns to appreciate a different type of society where the value of the education receives is altered by what environment they are in. The learned pilot becomes as vulnerable and ignorant as a child while her skills allow them t survive. The relationship between the two main characters is stunning, and subtle. Its another gritty survival film, a drama rather than an adventure, but I love it all the same.