Day 2 Pendeen to St Ives 14 Miles

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I woke up at sixish and I was ready to go by seven fifteen. The wind was still fierce but manageable, my wonderful tent had survived the night. I suspect at some point on this trip it will break or tear, it’ll  be like losing a friend.

Cliff edge near Zennor Head

Made my way across the fields back to the shore line, my heart already sinking as I could see my path descending to the sea before crossing a steam and going straight back up. Still with the eagerness of someone only on her second day I marched on. The climb left be gasping, I’m just not fit enough for them and I was forced to stop a number of times, pretending to enjoy the view and watching out for any other hikers who might shame me.

The weather was forever changing as rain clouds were blown through, after the downfall the sun and wind drying everything quickly. The more tired I got the more the wind became a nuisance , knocking me off balance continually. If nothing else the day showed just how ridiculous people that climb Everest and the Eiga are.
Anyway back to the complaining. The entire day consists of descending into galleys and the climbing out. Great views but hard terrain and no change to get a rhythm. I was comforted to discover that the guide book considers this section one of the toughest of the Southwest Coastal Path, so maybe I’m not such a wimp after all.

I did enjoy some of the views, although usually the ones across a short flat patch, mainly I found it all frustrating. The Pennine Way has hard climbs, larger than today’s but after an hour or two of hard walking your on top, so you take your medicine and soldier down. There’s none of this up down up down up down thing. Bloody nature.
It took nearly then hours to get to St Ives, my walking pace mostly 3km an hour. There was one section where I felt completely stuck. Massive boulders blocked the track. Without a backpack it might have been fun but while carrying 19 KG it was no picnic.
I ducked gratefully inland at River Cover and walked the last three or four miles across the fields. It was wonderful. I suddenly found I could walk again. My legs felt like led while climbing but on the flat they were fine. I past Trevalgan touring park (who’d kindly offered me a free pitch in support of the charity) and walked on to Ayr Campsite. This one is a lot closer to the town,  overlooking the harbor about fifteen minutes from the center.
It’s a wonderful campsite. Special area for backpackers, great shower rooms and toilets and cafe with a pool and lounging rooms. Everything is cared for and warm. The staff were friendly and even the wind couldn’t stop it from been a very cosy night.

Ayr Campsite looking over St Ives

Popped into the town to buy a few snacks for tomorrow, and something healthy for dinner- ended up with chips from a Fish and chip shop called the Albatross. Gentleman who served me did however sponsor me £5. I think I might walk inland tomorrow and avoid the coast as much as I can.